Preconstructed (precon) decks are official deck lists automatically imported from manufacturer product data and maintained by Gradely. You can identify them by the blue verified badge that appears next to the deck name on the detail page.
If you notice any errors in a precon deck list (wrong cards, incorrect quantities, missing entries), please let us know through our support portal.
To help us fix issues quickly, please include:
Some precon decks carry an unverified badge (an amber warning triangle next to the deck name). This means the deck was imported from the manufacturer's public deck list because the full card data for that specific product has not yet been published through their official API.
The card names and quantities are sourced from the manufacturer's own decklist page, so they are almost certainly correct. The cards themselves are real cards that exist in our catalogue, matched by name and by image where possible, and they are functionally identical to what you'd find in the physical product.
What we can't guarantee yet is the exact printing of each card. The canonical card IDs in an unverified deck may point to reprints or earlier editions rather than the specific set the physical product uses. Once the manufacturer publishes that data, the deck gets re-imported automatically and the unverified badge goes away.
If you spot a card in an unverified deck that looks wrong (a different name, a token mislabelled as a real card, anything odd), please flag it through our support portal. The sooner we know, the sooner we can promote the deck to verified.
Each plan includes a number of decks. If you hold more decks than your plan allows (for example after moving to a plan with a lower limit), nothing is deleted. Your most recently edited decks, up to your plan's limit, stay fully usable. The rest are marked Read only: until you are back within your limit, you can open them to look at them and delete them, nothing else.
Editing, starring, publishing, exporting, cloning and adding its cards to your collection or wishlist all wait until the deck is usable again.
"Most recently edited" counts changes to the deck itself (its cards, name, format and tags). Publishing, unpublishing or starring a deck does not change which decks are editable. To edit a read-only deck, delete some decks so you are back within your limit, or move to a plan with a higher one: every deck unlocks straight away.
Yes. Open any of your decks and choose Showcase for a clean, full-screen view to record or stream. Showcase never changes the deck.
Yes. On a Flesh and Blood precon, tournament deck or published deck, open Export and choose Try on Talishar. Talishar opens a game with the deck loaded. Your own decks get the option once they are published, and Talishar plays the published version.
A deck assignment links a specific physical copy you own to a deck, so you can see where your cards actually live. Each physical copy can be assigned to at most one deck at a time, a copy that's in one deck isn't available to another until you release it. You can only assign a copy to a deck whose list already contains that exact card (printing); assigning never silently adds cards to a deck.
With this setting on (the default), adding a card to a deck automatically reserves a free owned copy for it, so you don't have to assign cards one by one. Turn it off in Profile → Decks if you'd rather assign manually. Removing a card from a deck always releases any copies that were assigned to it.
The Deck assignment mode (in Profile → Decks) controls how assignments affect the ownership badges shown on cards inside a deck:
Either way the underlying data is identical, so you can switch modes any time without losing assignments.
Open any deck (your own, a community deck or a precon) and choose Compare. Pick the other deck from your decks, community decks or precons, or paste a deck link or ID. Both decks must be from the same game.
The comparison lists what changed zone by zone: cards added and removed, quantity changes, cards moved between the main deck and sideboard, and swapped printings, with hero, commander, leader, legend and avatar changes first. The upgrade cost is the current price of everything deck B has that deck A does not, in your currency, and when you are signed in it also shows how many of those cards you already own.
Copy changes puts a plain-text list of the changes and a link on your clipboard, ready for Discord or Reddit. Share copies a link anyone can open. A private deck cannot be shared: publish it first, and the link then shows its published version.
To start without opening a deck first, pick both decks on the deck compare page.
Open any deck (yours, a community deck or a precon) and look at Consistency in its stats. It answers the questions your game asks of every deck: no blue in your opening hand (Flesh and Blood), a land drop each turn (Magic), a Basic Pokémon in your opening seven, a card to play on curve each turn (Lorcana), a turn 1 play and an Action or Reaction by turn 3 (Riftbound), or the elemental threshold your sites give by a given site (Sorcery). Hover a card in the deck list, or tap it on a phone, to see how likely you are to have seen it by a typical turn.
Click a Consistency line to load it into the Draw Odds calculator, then change it. You can combine up to four conditions (at least, exactly, at most or none), taken from any bar or chip in the stats, from cards you pick, or, in Flesh and Blood, the pitch value of your hand. Every answer is worked out exactly from your deck using the game's own draw rules, before any mulligan.
The draw odds page works without a deck, or load one of your decks, a community deck or a precon there. Copy link shares the question you are looking at.
The search box on your decks, community decks and precons, and in Compare, takes a deck name and two filters. Select the i in the box for a quick reference.
dori finds "Dorinthea Aggro").hero: in Flesh and Blood, commander: in Magic, leader: in One Piece, legend: in Riftbound and avatar: in Sorcery. Quote a name with spaces: commander:"tifa lockhart".i:blue for a colour in Magic, One Piece, Lorcana and Gundam, a pitch colour in Flesh and Blood, a type in Pokémon, a threshold in Sorcery or a domain in Riftbound.As in card search, commas mean OR and repeating a filter means AND: i:blue,red finds decks with blue or red, i:blue i:red finds decks with both.
In Compare, the search starts from the deck you are comparing (its hero, commander or leader, otherwise its colours), so the first results are decks worth comparing. You can also paste a deck link or ID there.
From the publisher of each game. Tournament decks are the top decklists from official events, taken from the results the publisher posts on its own site. Every deck and event page links back to the original as Check the source.
Each event shows its Top 8, then the best-placed deck for each legend, hero or leader further down the standings. You can clone any of them into your own decks, or add the cards you are missing to your wishlist.
We leave them out on purpose. A deck is named after its legend, hero or leader (or its colours, in a game without one), the event and where it finished, never the person who played it. Player names are dropped as each results page is read, so they never reach Gradely at all.
Once a night. Our crawler, GradelyBot, checks the publisher's results for new events, so a deck usually appears the day after its results are posted.
Sometimes an official list names a card in a way our catalogue cannot match, such as a typo or a printing we do not have yet. Those cards show on the deck as cards in the official list are not available; select it to see them as the list wrote them.
If you know what one should be, tell us at /contact with the deck's link and we will fix it.
Staples are the cards official tournament decks play most. Pick a game, a format and, if you like, a hero, legend, leader or avatar (or a class, domain or colour), and you see which cards those decks run and how often.
Cards fall into three bands: core (in at least 80% of the decks), common (40% to 79%) and flex (the slots players disagree on). Copies is the number of copies most of those decks run, with the share of decks that run exactly that many beneath it.
The numbers come only from the Top 8 lists of official events, the same decks as tournament decks, so no player names are involved.
The decks from the 180 days before that page's newest event, not before today. A hero nobody has taken to a Top 8 lately keeps showing its last real picture, with the dates it covers, instead of going empty.
A page needs at least 5 decks to show. Pages with fewer than 20 decks still show, but search engines are asked not to list them until there is more to go on.